WITCHES, ART AND ARCHITECTURE

Can you guess what this is?

As we drove the MoHo through far north Norway, following the scenic National Tourist Routes, we came across the tiny island town of Vardo. 

To put this into perspective for non Europeans, Vardo sits at a latitude of 70 degrees North.

It's a long way to the top of the EU.

The 70 degree mark takes you about 700 kms inside the Arctic Circle and almost as far as you can drive north. There is no sun seen here for two months in Winter but fortunately for us in Summer there is no dark, just a long twilight and stunning sunsets that merge into sunrises. 

By comparison, if you were to travel this far south from Australia you would be standing on Antarctica.

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STEILNESET

Memorial to the Witches burned in Finnmark

The installation we visited was jointly funded by the town of Vardo & the Norwegian Public Roads Administration. 

By any standard this is a gem of contemporary design that commemorates the executions of Witches that took place here in the 1600s.

The memorial, consists of two contrasting parts: 

A 125 meter wooden structure that supports a fabric cocoon by Swiss architect Peter Zumthor

and

A dark smoked glass cube that contains a magnificent installation by French-American artist Louise Bourgeois 

The canvas structure is supported by steel cables and a wooden frame and can be entered at either of the tapering ends  via wooden bridges:

Entry to the 100m x 1.5m corridor brings a visceral response that blends many emotions. Elation at the beauty of the structure, insecurity in the near dark and sadness for the victims of the witchcraft trials.

TRIALS

The trials took place all over Europe in the 1600s. In Finnmark 77 local women and 14 men were prosecuted and executed for practicing witchcraft.

On the interior walls of the hallway hang posters that detail the individual victims, their alleged crimes and the resulting punishment.

Most of the persecuted were tried with "witness testimonies" obtained under torture and the outcome of the water ordeal used as evidence of God's judgement.

How would you like to be put to this test?

The accused is thrown into the freezing sea with feet and hands tied. Water, considered a sacred element  would repel evil and therefore the accused  would rise to the surface and float, indicating guilt.

Guilt was punished in most cases with death by fire at the stake.

Sinking was a sign of innocence.

Each of the 91 victims is also represented  by a small window and a dim light which reference the candles seen through the curtainless windows of the regions houses.

Standing in stark contrast is the black glass installation called 

"The Damned, The Possessed and The Beloved" (2011)

The semi-open glass structure contains a single chair that burns eternally. 

Looking down on the fiery seat are seven large oval mirrors.  Like judges circling the condemned and reflecting the horror of the ordeal and the "injustice of an implacable judiciary"

Imagine for a moment that you are GURI OLFSDATTER summoned to the court in a linked trial which resulted in the execution of twelve women:

Brought before the court at Vardohus Castle on 16 February 1621

Accused of practicing witchcraft

Her husband testified that she had but once prayed to the Lord and asked for mercy, during the previous three years, on that one occasion, he was the one who forced her to do so.

Was subjected to the water ordeal and floated

Confessed afterwards:

that she learnt witchcraft from Kirsten Sorensdatter

that she promised to serve the Evil One

that she called her devil Cax

that on Christmas Eve, she attended witches' covens on both Lyderhorn and Ballvollen

that she cast a spell on a citizen of Bergen called Erich Jorgensen

that his ship and its cargo of fish went down, and he himself drowned

that she cast the spell because of an argument about the fish he had taken from her.

Convicted of the practice of witchcraft

Sentenced to death in fire at the stake

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Louise Borgious passed away in 2010 at the age of 98 years. 

This was her last major work.

More information on the Steilneset Memorial to the Witches Burned in Finnmark and Vardo can be found at

http://www.architecturenorway.no/projects/culture/witch-memorial-2011/ 

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Higher resolution copies of these images can be found at my Flickr site:

Images of STEILNESET

A MONTH OF SUNDAYS

As a visitor to Spain or Portugal around Easter one could be forgiven for thinking that every day is a Sunday for this is the time of Samana Santa and some of the most colourful celebrations of the Catholic faithful.

In other countries the appearance on the streets of mysterious cloaked and hooded figures would be cause for alarm but in these regions where religious traditions run deep, these costumes are central to the annual celebration of The Passion of Christ.

Members of the Brotherhood wearing Nazarnos

Many of these brotherhoods or fraternities have existed since the Middle Ages and the origin of the costumes is believed to lay in the participants being able to practice their penance without revealing their identity.

The conical hood is called a capirote

Whilst membership of the brotherhood is open to any Catholic person there is usually a strong family heritage which encourages participation from an early age.

The Novice

The Experienced

The actual colour and appearance of the garments varies depending on the procession and the particular brotherhood.

Richly coloured hoods

Stunning black and white

And some things are always in fashion

The processions themselves take place at all times of day and night during the week prior to Easter and wind their way through the atmospheric streets of the old town centres.

The real stars of the parades are the elaborate floats or pasos, which bear sculptures that depict scenes from the final days of Christ (The Passion) and the Sorrows of the Virgin Mary.

Tens of thousands flock to witness the procession in Seville

The floats are often richly decorated and being made of gold and silver are massively heavy. They are carried on the strong shoulders of teams of men hidden from view under the side drapes. This is hot and thirsty work even on a cool night and it is a procedure which is highly coordinated by officials charged with making sure no harm comes to these artworks that can be centuries old.

The Sorrows of the Virgin being led through the streets of Tavira.

The figures and floats are stored in churches and secure sites during the year and may have survived turbulent times to become prized possessions around which the communities are bonded.

Processional figures in storage at Mafra

 Inside the Palacio National de Mafra

In preparation for the festivities the figures and floats are dusted, clothed in robes and decorated with stunning floral arrangements.

A magnificent Pieta decorated with aromatic roses and irises 

The statues are presented for worship in the churches in the days before the parades and are popular sites of pilgrimage for the faithful who pray and offer donations in return for blessings.

Annual prayers to the Virgin

The crowds line the streets in anticipation and many purchase seats in specially constructed stands and "runways" to witness the festivities. Every town and city has its own style and with the parades taking up to eight hours to complete, a comfortable position is paramount.

Final touches to the seating along the runway at Seville

Most of the processions that we watched were colourful and joyous affairs that were proceeded by merchants selling lollies for kids and sunflower seeds for adults to pass the time until the real celebrations begin.

Selling cures for hypoglycaemia

If you were thinking that the slow pace of the parade might be somnolent then the cacophony of the approaching bands is enough to raise your fingers to you ears.

Many of the "tunes" were unfamiliar to us but "Christo de la Salud y Buen Viaje" has left a lasting impression. I challenge you to close your eyes, turn up the volume and imagine you are in the streets of Cadiz:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdZ451unsR0

The general format for the processional is that the pasos are greeted by the crowds as they are removed from their respective churches. The processions then make their way along predetermined routes around the town and stop at significant sites along the way for blessings.

Pasos leaving a church in Cadiz

In the case of this Cadiz parade the floats were accompanied by costumed soldiers in uniforms inspired by the Roman Legion.

Wolf Headpiece

Centurians

This spectacle of colour, sound and preserved traditions may take place along a number of different routes at the same time in larger cities and it is easy to track the path taken by the crowds and noise.

Imagine carrying this crucifix for several hours as penance

Streets of Puerto de Santa Maria

In the small port town of Tavira the Christ and Virgin statues are taken along different routes and eventually meet back at the church.

Christ carrying the cross

The Virgin Mary

As day turns to night the celebrations continue with the pasos entering a side door of the church for a brief ceremony and then leaving via the main entrance to the awaiting crowd.

A pasos entering the side door

The Virgin exiting the church to the applause of the crowd

The exception to all the noise and excitement was the solemn silent procession we took in at Sanlucar de Barrameda. Starting at midnight the route covers a few kilometres of the old city and finishes after sunrise. Despite its popularity there is an eerie atmosphere that accompanies this tribute, while the noise from other parades can be heard echoing through the alleyways.

Silent procession entering the church

In smaller towns such as Benarraba we were privileged to be the sole outsiders to see the ceremonies held in a small and close community. Again in a night procession, the statues were carried up and down the steep and sometimes narrow streets with the golden crowns being deftly maneuvered beneath powerlines and around tight corners.

Benarraba at night

The Virgin in street light

Statues of Jesus and Mary at the church

The Easter celebrations conclude with the return of the statues to their various keeping places. Some are stored out of view while others await the next ceremony while looking down at the congregations from vantage points high above the pews of churches and cathedrals. The final wave of processions are called Romeria in Spain and Romaria in Portugal and are once again are accompanied with similar attention to traditions.

Crucifixion statue returned to its storage chapel

On display in church

Priceless statuary

As you can see we have been immersed in the cultural wealth that Spain and Portugal offer at the time of Easter. These countries which are rich in history are currently dominated by the teachings and traditions of the Catholic church will reward the faithful residents and curious travellers alike.

If you would like to see better quality images from this blog you are invited to visit my Flickr site at:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidponton/

OF DEATH, REMEMBRANCE & CUSTOM

"WE BONES HERE, FOR YOURS AWAIT" read the grim words above the entrance to the Chapel of Bones. The intention is to cause the viewer to reflect on the transitory nature of the human condition and thereby bring about repentance during our wait for what might lay beyond the grave. 

This ossuary is one of several that we have discovered and while the tradition of preserving and decorating a chapel with human remains may leave many squeamish, this is more due to the differences between our own cultural practices and those of that we have encountered on our travels.

In the setting of the convent of San Franscico, Portugal this dim and gruesome place lays in stark contrast to the church alongside which is notable for the recently completed restoration. Both the exterior and interior are presented in all their dust free and splendidly detailed magnificence.

Not as well presented and yet as equally macabre and fascinating is another ossuary hidden away in Elvas, a few kilometres from the Spanish border. For the entry price of 2 Euros you can enter the small chapel and wonder at the sight of countless human bones entirely covering the walls and ceiling  in decorative patterns. Another sombre reminder of our mortality. 

In these deeply religious countries we are currently in the approach to Easter and traditions and rituals abound. It's the time of year to polish the Saintly statuary and dress the processional figures for the annual round of community festivities.

Wood and paper mache figures from 1740 await their costumes before being taken to the streets.

Everywhere we travel preparations are in progress for this important Christian celebration of the final days in the earthly life of Jesus, the crucifixion and the resurrection. Representations of these biblical events are to be found in every church and have historically been the subject for artworks in every media, by the greatest of the masters.

  Ivory sculpture of The Crucifixion. 17th C.

The ancient lands of Europe have seen the rise and fall of numerous civilisations and their popular belief systems. The aspirational architectural of the religious and ritualistic is often all that remains of these once powerful societies and we delight in hunting down what has been preserved of this record. Often these structures exude an air of the magical or spiritual and their attraction is much to do with the unanswerable questions they pose.

Much of what remains intact represents the cultural beliefs surrounding death and remembrance. The following examples explore some of these practices beginning with places so ancient they remain beyond our understanding.

Throughout Spain and Portugal we have driven dusty roads between cork and olive trees and cursed inaccurate GPS coordinates in search of the primitive stone assemblages called Dolmen. Thought to be ceremonial sites and probably burial chambers, these structures date from between 3000 & 5000 BC and are remarkably well preserved. They stand as a testament to the ingenuity of a lost race

Some of these stone buildings which have stood for around five thousand years have been repurposed by subsequent communities such as this tiny chapel in Pavia, Portugal:

Sometime prior to 200,000 years ago hominids wandered this landscape and there is evidence of Neanderthals coexisting with humans as recently as 10,000 years ago in Iberia. They were followed by the Celts, Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians and eventually the Romans.

Roman grave near our lakeside camp.

Empires continued to rise and fall and what is now Portugal had previously fallen to the Vandals, Alans, Visigoths, Suevi,  and the Moors before they in turn were overcome by the christians who began their surge south from Porto in 868.

We have visited some fine examples of Romanesque churches, aqueducts & bridges but it is the Christians who now dominate the architectural and ideological landscape.

Monumental gothic cathedrals, ornate chapels and the ever present influence of Catholicism adds an enduring richness to the built landscape. Even the smallest of towns retains it's calendar of festivals and local traditions. Inhabitants long past are interred in cluttered cemeteries with crumbling caskets inside lichen covered tombs.

        

The management of mortal remains is governed by local tradition and current religious practice.

In the museum of the damaged cathedral of Lisbon we found Egyptian and Peruvian mummies amongst other relics which now stand testament to the former wealth and influence of the Portuguese empire.

                   

Amongst the strangest of experiences was when we visited the church just outside Viana do Alentejo. A modest but attractive building from the exterior the corridors we wandered into beyond the alter were covered in a weird collection of memorabilia to lost relatives and prayers for the living.

               

Countless photographs, locks of hair, toys, uniforms and just about everything you could imaging including a stuffed python with dentures created and erie but fascinating visit.

Of course such things are a matter of taste and we are constantly surprised by the experiences we are privileged to have. It seems that every decent sized town immortalises an historic figure in the bronze form of a mounted nobleman or a robed monk.

                        

If you are looking for the off the scale unusual is can be found at the Catacombe dei Cappuccini in Palermo, Sicily. Here the mummified remains of some 8000 distinguished persons have rested since the 17th to 19th centuries. Preserved in a what now seems a bizarre local tradition the bodies are presented fully clothed. In this vast crypt many of the deceased are affixed upright to the walls of the crypt and arranged in sections such as Children or Virgins. The remains were tended to by the relatives who would periodically change the clothing. This is not one for the fainthearted and it is difficult to reconcile with our current Western practices.

    

  

Returning to the more modern and conventional there are some fascinating spaces crafted by great architects to pay homage to fallen heroes and martyrs. One of the most memorable was a crypt we visited under the Cadiz cathedral. Recognised for it's outstanding acoustics and the massive domed ceiling that supports the main alter, the ambience and design of the tomb is unsurpassed.

Of the many deeply moving sites we have come across one of the most memorable would have to be the Ossuaries de Douaumont. Located at the site of the battlefield of Verdun, France, this massive structure is in fact a 137 m long ossuary that contains the bones of the 130,000 unidentified French and German soldiers who were buried in mass graves and later relocated. The solemn atmosphere of the memorial is intensified by the cemetery below that contains 15,000 crosses and speaks of the terrible atrocities that fraternally united some 800,000 men who lost their lives in this area.

Those of us who meet a humble end may eventually rest in a more contemporary style and we should remember that our survivors choose the decorations. These glass fronted cabinets contain the casket and a collection of items representative of the deceased. We found many of the displays quite moving and it was apparent that they had been arranged with much affection.

As we walk the cemetery grounds we can't help but wonder about the events that filled the lives of the faces that look out from fading photographs. The rituals, trials and tribulations of more ordinary people who inhabited these lands for a short time and who now rest amongst their companions, family and community.

All cultures have their traditions and beliefs and our journey through these countries is an exploration of rich history and local customs. The practices involved in death and remembrance leave us with only one certain conclusion......

"WE BONES HERE, FOR YOURS AWAIT"

                        

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